As seasons shift down, all I hear is ‘ahhhh’

Framed by bronze madronas, friend Orcas Tom takes in the view from our September dinner table on James Island.

If you’re viewing this post from an email alert, click on the headline to see the full graphic design of “Cantwell’s Reef.”

REPLACING SUMMER’S MUSCULAR BUZZ from a neighbor’s power saw, now comes the gentle sigh of wind in tall firs. Instead of goldfinches fluttering at my bird feeder, golden leaves whirl on cooling zephyrs.

From August’s idyll, my island is shifting to idle.

I had a busy summer, guiding visitors who came to my islands from Vermont, Florida, Texas, Alaska, and all over. My gig with Road Scholar, the international tour outfitter offering educational travel for folks 50 and older, took a week of each of my summer months. When I wasn’t wearing my tour-guide vest, I was working my own Skil saw and rebuilding my back porch.

In my Road Scholar red vest, second row right: Shepherding 34 visitors through the San Juans in July.

Completing that task, which was on my to-do list for several summers, has been wholly satisfying. Situated halfway down a steep hillside, my cabin is subject to earth creep. Over 25 years soil and massive rocks heeding gravity’s marching orders had submerged the base of my cedar porch. Rot ran rampant. With pick-ax and shovel I unearthed the decayed timbers, shielding their replacement planks with upright cement paver stones to keep the hillside at bay.

When not toiling with tools, I was at my laptop’s keyboard reviewing edits of my friend Neil’s novel, Near the Wild Heart. Lake Union Publishing, an imprint of Amazon, will publish it next February. This spring and summer brought edit after edit, with multiple reviews and proofreads. My one-off role as literary agent morphed into editorial assistant. A triumph this week: delivery in my island mailbox of two advance reader’s copies (Neil got a box of 45!), which include the full-color cover, interior photos, map, author’s note, the works. It’s a thrill to sit and read it like, well, a real book.

Autumn’s gold is starting to show on my aspen.

Another summer accomplishment: the apparent prospering of the spring-planted aspen sapling next to my writing hut. I watered it faithfully to nurture young roots. It leafed out beautifully, and now that foliage quakes in the breeze and shows the first hints of autumn gold that makes aspens the glory of the Colorado Rockies. Surprisingly to many, aspens do grow naturally in the San Juans. Sucia Island has a big grove.

After partaking of my island’s Labor Day salmon barbecue and meeting new friends at the clubhouse — a sailing family with shiver-me-timbers tales of hurricanes and other salty adventures — I took a couple days off this week, buzzing in WeLike over to Orcas Island to pick up my buddy Tom. We had a fun campout on James Island, a marine state park just 10 minutes from my Center Island dock.

Coming later this month: a family wedding at a honest-to-god castle near Tacoma, for which I ordered a mail-order tuxedo jacket (we’ll see how that turns out). Port Orchard friends Dave and Jill will rendezvous with me in La Conner in October. And today I sat down and booked a November flight to California to spend a few days with Olympia chums Daniel and Jean, who like to spend weeks in Berkeley adoring a young grandson. Along the way, I’ll have a stopover on Seattle’s Magnolia Bluff to see former Seattle Times colleague Carol, her husband, Tom, and our mutual friend Holly. Nurturing friendships is important when you live alone with your cat on a little rock in the Salish Sea.

To everything there is a season, dear Reefers. Which reminds me: Midterm elections are coming this fall. Please make plans to vote. Strategize ahead of time; don’t let anyone stop you. The U.S.A. remains a democracy only as long as we make it so.

Sunset pinkens the sky above Mount Baker, as seen from James Island.

Rites of island autumn include loading the larder

Soft autumnal colors stretch to the Cascade foothills as the Padilla Bay Shore Trail winds along Little Indian Slough in the Skagit Valley.

I KIND OF LOVE MY ROUTINES on this little outpost surrounded by saltwater. Maybe it says something about me. I’m an island dweeb.

For example, the Big Monthly Shopping Trip to the Mainland is one of my highlights. And if I don’t follow a set routine I don’t get everything I like to have in my fridge and pantry.

So I keep a magnetized pad on my fridge and add to my shopping list every time I notice I’m low on something. If I don’t immediately add it to the list, chances are I’ll dork out at the grocery and forget about it. And next week I don’t get my nightly piña colada yogurt treat. No cinnamon to sprinkle on a ripe pear. No peanut butter in which to dip my lunchtime celery. (Horrors!)

That might all sound trivial to the landlubbers among you — those who don’t have to cross a saltwater strait to find a Fred Meyer or Costco. But it’s a serious concern when one lives on an island with no stores, where even a 7-Eleven would be luxury. (Access to a rotisserie hot dog, just down the block, rain or shine, any day of the year? You better know how lucky you are.)

Yesterday was my big monthly shopping day, and as my shopping days go, it was Extra Big. The larder was low. The pantry cupboards were no longer sagging under the weight of extra Paul Newman pasta sauce, flagons of avocado oil, or lashings of Chunk Light Tuna. Autumn is here, it’s time to stock up!

I grabbed the shopping list on my way out the door to catch the 9 a.m. Island Express water taxi to Anacortes. I would have until 5 p.m. before catching the last boat back. Plenty of time to shop, right?

As is my custom, I used the morning boat ride to divvy up the shopping among my three customary shopping venues: Costco, Freddy’s and Trader Joe’s.

With TJ’s in the plan, that meant a drive to Bellingham, Joe’s nearest locale. Even better, as shopping days went: extra adventure in one of my favorite towns. Brew pubs! Waterfront trails! Food trucks!

Also on the to-do list was a stop at a post office for more stamps for my Vote Forward letter-writing efforts, along with a haircut. (I really don’t do well cutting it myself I conceded after that time with the big bald patch on one side.)

I roughly calculated the time needed for all these stops, and realized I might be running for that 5 o’clock boat. So I prioritized. First stop: the cheap hair salon in Mount Vernon. The hair was getting seriously bush-like.

After a half hour of rapid snipping, oddly chopping and “how high is your part usually?” questions, the obviously inexperienced young woman behind the scissors set me loose considerably more light-headed, if slightly off-kilter up top.

On the chance that Bellingham was too ambitious, I decided to do the bulk of my shopping in nearby Burlington. First stop: Costco.

Though the prices and quality are good, Costco infuriates me with (A) the quantity you must purchase (Nuthatch Cabin doesn’t have storage for 30 rolls of T.P.!), and (B) the lack of basic supermarket organizational signage indicating which aisle holds canned corn and which is home to raisins.

So I had no choice but to race up and down every food aisle in search of the dozen items on my list. When driving one of those Costco carts that could double as a minivan for a family of four, speed is dangerous. I nearly took out several track-suited homemakers on a field trip from Sedro-Woolley and had a near miss with an octogenarian couple deep in debate over whether to get the regular prunes or pop for the organic.

But I had Bellingham on my mind. Dassn’t tarry.

After spending $191 at Costco, I lucked into a parking space within sight of Fred Meyer’s front door. I grabbed a large cart and tackled the longest part of my shopping list. I bought every carton of piña colada yogurt in their dairy case. Picked out enough shiny red apples to bake a crumble and slice for lunches for weeks. Piled the cart high. Filled seven bags at checkout. The tab: $174.

Back at the car, I laboriously packed my purchases into plastic totes and insulated cold-bags, then jumped in, steered toward Interstate 5, and put the pedal down for B-Town.

As I sped northward at 74 mph, my mind caught up with my accelerator foot. I let up on the gas a bit. Did I really need a Trader Joe’s stop? I might miss the extra bag of dry roasted but unsalted almonds. Or the frozen French green beans. But I had already bought almost $400 worth of groceries. Did I really need more?

I could probably make it to Bellingham and back, but I’d be racing. No time for a brew pub, or anywhere else. And I hate being late for my water taxi.

So I hit the signal and pulled into the exit for Bow Hill Road. I turned left and headed for the charming little Skagit Valley communities of Bow and Edison. A scenic route across the Samish Flats would lead me back toward Anacortes. At a leisurely pace.

Happy serendipity: One of the few structures composing the tiny burg of Bow was a tiny U.S. Post Office. I pulled in to the lot and interrupted the lone clerk who was vacuuming his itsy-bitsy lobby, seemingly surprised to get a visitor. I purchased a pane of fall-color stamps, which will help me encourage voters in Pennsylvania and North Carolina to go to the polls this election.

Along my pleasant drive across the valley, I stopped at a self-serve farmstand in Edison for a pint of fresh blueberries. I craned my head to try to count the number of fisher-folk wading in the Samish River, which must be having a big coho run. I stopped and hiked a mile on the Padilla Bay Shore Trail, from which I enjoyed expansive views of the Cascade foothills beneath multi-toned layers of soft September cloud. A lone heron was the only fisher here.

For me, this “Plan B” was so much better than racing about like a chicken with its head cut off, as my farm-raised mother used to say.

I paused at Seafarers Memorial Park in Anacortes for a few minutes of in-car shut-eye, then got my latest COVID vaccination and flu shot at the Safeway pharmacy, and made it to my boat with time to spare.

Home again, home again. Larder loaded. Sitting pretty, with autumn arriving.